Fall-Winter 2009/2010: La Mode Masculine à Paris

Dior Homme, Lanvin, Jean Paul Gaultier, Raf Simons
Dior Homme, Lanvin, Jean Paul Gaultier, Raf Simons

Paris Fashion Week is one of the most important (and luxurious) events in the fashion industry as key players set the mood for the coming season.  It is after all, the fashion capitol of the world.  As the world converged in Paris this past January to take in the breath-taking shows, the Parisians conveyed a strong message for this season.  So, we give you a look at this prestigious 4-day affair and what came out of it.  And following this report, we will give you a more detailed account of the various individual shows, split up in the 4 days that they were presented.  Allons-y!

Note: These guides are intended to be used as visual references of what were offered for Fall-Winter 2009/2010.  As in the case with fashion, everyone has their own style.  Take inspiration from the different ideas from these designers and make it your own.

paris fashion week fall-winter 2009/2010

From January 22 to 25 2009, the major designers, fashion connoisseurs and trendsetters alike converged in the fashion capital of the world to take in 4 days of men’s fashion.  This season, the recent mood of mundaneness that Paris was showing in previous collections was lifted and the designers showed more creativity within their pieces.  As common in women’s fashion than in men’s, this season brought back more volume, shape and silhouette to the male form.  Men were romanticists, pragmatics, intellects or warriors.  During the 4 days: extravagance and classicism were the orders of the season.

Commencing now, pieces from these collections are trickling through Toronto retailers.  The majority of pieces will be available come late August-early September.

What came out of the 4-days of presentations were 4 key trends that defined Paris Fashion Week:

the big scarf

The neck was a huge focal point for Fall-Winter 2009/2010 collections during Paris Fashion Week.  While designers came up with innumerable ways to draw attention to this often-neglected body part, many of their creations were far from practical for most men’s lives.  However, one feasible way to stick your neck out, stylistically speaking, that was repeatedly seen on the runways was a big scarf.  As the French have known for ages, throwing on a scarf adds a certain je ne sais quoi to any ensemble.  This time, however, rather than being looped in the more traditional way, thick scarves were seen bundled around the neck for a more undone effect.

Dries Van Noten Louis Vuitton Veronique Branquinho Costume National

timeless coats

The credit crunch is making everyone think twice about where their hard-earned cash, or lack of it, is going.  In trying economic times, no one is interested in clothing that will be out of style faster than the stock market is plummeting.  With this knowledge in hand, designers like Raf Simons and Hermès gave us some sound investment advice, showcasing a collection of timeless coats in a palette of neutral colours such as camel, black and gray. These coats were sharply cut, impeccably tailored and made to stand the test of time.

Raf Simons Hermès Dunhill Paul Smith

the “un-skinny” suit

After seasons of seeing models parading down runways in skin-tight clothing, designers have finally started to give real men suits they actually want to wear.  At the Paris ready-to-wear shows, Raf Simons and Dries Van Noten both exhibited a mix of perfect-fitting suits with those that had a bit more wiggle room.  As well, Veronique Branquinho showed off incredibly flattering suits that hung slightly away from the body.  Though this style is by its nature easy to wear, there are two tips you should keep in mind when shopping for a looser suit.  First, make sure that only the legs are more ample, the waist should be fitted or you’ll look ridiculous.  Second, cut is everything, so don’t be afraid to spend a little more money on high-quality garments to get the look just right.  Made from 100% merino wool with a fitted waist and a more relaxed leg, these pants from Harmon exemplify both of these rules, and you don’t have to wait until next fall to buy them.

Veronique Branquinho Yves Saint Laurent Dries Van Noten Raf Simons

colour blocking

’80s continue to inspire the French fashion world, with colour blocking appearing on several catwalks.  Thankfully, this time around, rather than searing our retinas with their neon glow, the blocks of colour that turned up on sweaters, T-shirts and blazers in the Fall-Winter 2009/2010 collections were more subdued and ultimately more wearable than the ’80s originals. Dunhill, for example, featured this unconventional tri-coloured crewneck sweater on its runway, but paired it with gray dress pants and black shoes to keep the overall look from getting too wild.

Dunhill Comme des Garçons Dunhill Paul Smith

via askmen.com

related links

Fall-Winter 2009/2010 Trends Guide

wings + horns F/W 2009 Collection

Visvim Fall/Winter 2009 Collection

How To Find The Perfect Suit

Spring-Summer 2009 Trends Guide

How To Accessorize Your Suit

How To Adhere To Dress Code

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