Fall-Winter 2009/2010: New York's Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

3.1 Phillip Lim, Band of Outsiders, Michael Bastian, Trovata
3.1 Phillip Lim, Band of Outsiders, Michael Bastian, Trovata

new york’s mercedes-benz fashion week fall-winter 2009/2010

From February 13 to 20 2009, presented over the course of 7 days, the Americans were set to showcase their collections in New York.  Despite New York’s reputation as a city that lives and breathes creative ingenuity, the Americans this season steered clear of the extravagance and new silhouettes that were so prominent a couple weeks prior during Paris Fashion Week. The designers at New York Fashion Week played it fairly safe for their Fall-Winter 2009/2010 menswear collections.  Gone were the extravagant dandies of past years and in their place were the rugged American casual man in denim and leather, or the no-nonsense business man chic in charcoal or black.  The overall silhouette stayed with slim-fitting pants and tailored jackets, though many designers used a layered look, relieving the formality of jackets with long chunky knit sweaters underneath to make a statement without losing the wearability of the clothing itself.  Perhaps the mundaneness that was shown in New York was the result of the global economic climate at that time, as designers were in the mindset of longevity rather than trends.  Whatever the case, New York proved once again that classicism will always play a pivotal role in menswear.

Emerging from New York’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week were 3 keys trends:


cuffed pants

The first glimpse of a cuffed comeback came in Quantum of Solace, the clean lines of Mr. Bond’s Tom Ford designed suit concluded in a pair of neat pant cuffs, complete with hidden button tabs to maintain the perfect break.  For his fall 2009 collection, Italian menswear designer Domenico Vacca followed 007’s lead; his elegantly tailored suits were cinched off with cuffed legs, making them all the more crisp.  This emerging style isn’t limited to suits, provided you stick to a slim cut.  A pair of casual cuffed pants will pair very nicely with a classic white oxford shirt (squared off with rolled-up sleeves).

Band of Outsiders Z Zegna Ralph Lauren Domenico Vacca

crumpled jackets

After years of being paired with jeans, the sports jacket has again settled into its heritage as a casual garment. Form has followed function, and the jackets on display at New York Fashion Week were loose, baggy and deconstructed.

Diesel Black Gold Gilded Age Rag & Bone Diesel Black Gold

denim

From Bastian’s Walt Whitman-themed event to the jazz background of the Diesel show, American heritage was a consistent theme at New York Fashion Week.  And when it comes to menswear, nothing is more American than a pair of beat-up jeans.

William Rast Gilded Age Michael Bastian William Rast

related links

Fall-Winter 2009/2010: La Mode Masculine à Paris

Fall-Winter 2009/2010 Trends Guide

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