F/W 2009 New York’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week: Buckler, Tim Hamilton, Band of Outsiders & William Rast

Buckler, Tim Hamilton, Band of Outsiders & William Rast
Buckler, Tim Hamilton, Band of Outsiders & William Rast

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buckler

Evoking a Dorian Gray theme, Andrew Buckler showed a literal lineup of models that progressed from youthful denim looks to more mature, sophisticated tailored outfits while, much like the Oscar Wilde character, the models were all youthful looking.  Chunky knits, bottoms in rich wool or denim that played with volume and proportion, and officer’s coats with 19th-century removable brass buttons all represented Buckler’s signature dandy-rocker look, elevated by a live pianist who accompanied a thumping DJ.

Available at Buckler, 700 Queen Street West.

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tim hamilton

Reminiscing Antony Price’s ahead-of-its-time menswear in the late 70’s, Tim Hamilton’s collection this season was all about tailoring where he streamlined the silhouette, narrowed lapels and shrank collars.  And the result was nothing short of dramatic.  The most recognizable trait of the Tim Hamilton man was a carefully styled young rebel in a parka thrown over jersey layers, one of them striped, in a palette of black, white, red or electric blue.  It has taken a bit of time, but Tim Hamilton finally established some continuity in his collection, even if his show was confusing, to say the least.

Available at Sydney’s, 795 Queen Street West, (416) 603-3369.

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band of outsiders

Having named his brand after a Jean-Luc Godard film (of the same name), it’s no surprise that Scott Sternberg was inspired by another Godard film, 1967’s La Chinoise.  Much like the film’s dapperness, Sternberg was able to craft his most polished yet, but also his most relaxed.  The result: tux sweatpants as the key trouser, paired predictably with a tuxedo jacket, less so with a navy duffel jacket.  It was much like the Gilded Age collection that was presented earlier in the week, a mishmash of casual and formal wear that just looks effortlessly cool.  And yet, Sternberg was able to continue to nurture the cult following for his extremely narrow, boyish suits, adding a patchwork style of grey suitings to the repertoire.  But the crème de la resistance throughout the collection: his rubber, trompe l’oeil version of the classic boat shoe for his Sperry Top-Sider collaboration that was sprinkled in every look.

Available at Holt Renfrew, 50 Bloor Street West, (416) 922-2333; Sydney’s, 795 Queen Street West, (416) 603-3369; Jonathan + Olivia, 49 Ossington Avenue, (416) 849-5956.

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william rast

Tennessee is home to Music City, so it’s no surprise that in troubled times, creative directors Johan and Marcella Lindeberg took the harder, darker side of Nashville’s Southern-rock roots as muse.  And in the case of this season’s collection, Justin Timberlake’s quest of the perfect denim was realized.  The layering habits and rock ’n’ roll references were perfectly laid out: put a motorcycle jacket over a long top and add distressed jeans.  Mission accomplished.  Evoking a sense of the hard-working American man, the collection could be summed up as: Elvis meets Sinatra, biker culture mixed with Rat Pack.

Available at Holt Renfrew, 50 Bloor Street West, (416) 922-2333.

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related links

F/W 2009 New York’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week: Gilded Age, Robert Geller, Rag & Bone & Loden Dager

F/W 2009 New York’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week: Lacoste, Calvin Klein Collection, Y-3 & Z Zegna

Fall-Winter 2009/2010: New York’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

Fall-Winter 2009/2010: La Mode Masculine à Paris

Fall-Winter 2009/2010 Trends Guide

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