F/W 2009 New York’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week: Gilded Age, Robert Geller, Rag & Bone & Loden Dager

Gilded Age, Robert Geller, Rag & Bone & Loden Dager
Gilded Age, Robert Geller, Rag & Bone & Loden Dager

gilded age

Dubbing this season’s collection, Harvard ’69, Stefan Miljanic was apparently inspired by back issues of menswear magazines and their pairing of climbing boots with a more dressed up look.  Perhaps it was a nod to what’s happening now, 40 years later, when we currently have a certain change in the air…a breaking down of rules if you will.  The looks were of a more casual stature, yet still refined with fabric treatments like the iridescence on a coat in stretch corduroy, or details like the herringbone ribbing on a jacket.  Stefan Miljanic made an obvious conscious effort to elevate the collection with tailoring and double-faced knits, which all complemented the core denim and work-inspired sportswear that was shown throughout the collection.  It was a mixture of both a dressed up man, but fueled by a sense of casual demeanor (a black double-breasted tailored pea coat paired with distressed denim and tucked into hard-worn leather boots).

Available at Holt Renfrew, 50 Bloor Street West, (416) 922-2333; Lileo, 35-55 Mill Street, (416) 413-1410; TNT Man, 368 Eglinton Avenue West, (416) 488-0973.

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[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=14G6-VK2sng]

robert geller

Fresh off his GQ’s Best New Menswear Designer in America award, Robert Geller staged an elegant show that gave full expression to his vision of rogue aristocracy.  Geller had found inspiration in Vienna at the turn of the last century when menswear and men were the most romantic.  Geller’s fortes: tailored outerwear, dramatic knitwear and regal colours were all present during the show.  Geller’s coats and jackets have always featured distinctive details, and this season he set the buttons of officer jackets on an S shape, following the curves of the overlapping front panels.  That asymmetry spilled into button-front shirts as well.  Dip-dyed shirts called extra attention to the palette of rose, purple and teal.  Geller showed more knitwear than ever before, extravagantly layering the grandly proportioned pieces.  Although the collection had more of an “Interview With A Vampire” feel to it, Geller’s craftsmanship and knack for detailing prevailed.

Available at Jonathan + Olivia, 49 Ossington Avenue, (416) 849-5956; Nomad, 431 Richmond Street West, (416) 682-1107.

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[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s_Igt4kKbyk]

rag & bone

Marcus Wainwright and David Neville took a decisively modern turn, moving away from their usual historic and pop-culture references that were laced throughout their past collections.  The highly tailored collection had a pleasing mundaneness as well as a dignified warrior theme.  Embracing a Japan-influenced narrative based on a new “ninja” pant silhouette, voluminous and cinched at the knees and ankles, was a risk they took this season, but paid off in the end.  Silver suits, chain mail and officer jackets with crested buttons also suggested a more modern approach to samurai warfare in menswear.

Available at Holt Renfrew, 50 Bloor Street West, (416) 922-2333; Jonathan + Olivia, 49 Ossington Avenue, (416) 849-5956; Nomad, 431 Richmond Street West, (416) 682-1107; TNT Man, 368 Eglinton Avenue West, (416) 488-0973.

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loden dager

Despite the fact that the trio (Alex Galan, Oliver Helden, and Paul Marlow) responsible for Loden Dager’s acclaimed collection was influenced by another New York trio (Cy Twombly, Robert Rauschenberg, and Jasper Johns), and the result of the latter trio’s arrival in Manhattan, what was produced during the show were low-key clothes: plaid shirt, V-neck knit, corduroys and a cardigan with leather-covered buttons.  Heavy on knits and hunting references, the pieces (although revealing subtle treatments like triple-dyeing and bleaching) were in many eyes, dull on the catwalk.  Yet, the odd thing that stood out in everyone’s mind with this season’s offering from Loden Dager was that, they were all wearable (and sell-able) pieces.  These were actual real clothing that could be worn at any given time, without having to worry that one might look too ostentatious.

Available at TNT Man, 368 Eglinton Avenue West, (416) 488-0973.

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related links

F/W 2009 New York’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week: Lacoste, Calvin Klein Collection, Y-3 & Z Zegna

Fall-Winter 2009/2010: New York’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

Fall-Winter 2009/2010: La Mode Masculine à Paris

Fall-Winter 2009/2010 Trends Guide

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